Who drives the magic bus? Theaker drives the magic bus |
Who flies the magic trapeze? Theaker flies and turns the world on its head |
I lied, that's Livija & Theaker on the left |
What a treat to spend time with someone who could show us around and tell us all about it. I know more about Cerkno than most other places we've been to. From the profound - a 55,000 year old bone flute (the oldest instrument in the world) was found here - to the profane - you can buy g-string knickers in a vending machine at the pub... Why? Excellent question.
Knicker machine |
But we weren't only obsessed with one-size-fits-all-knickers-in-a-ball for 2 euros each... masks were also a source of great fascination and the local museum (in tandem with Livija) was great.
The masks and costumes belong to the Laufarji - a company of 'runners' who originate from way back when (Pagan times) to mark the end of winter. The carnival was sadly lost around the time of World War I* but some clever folk revived it in 1956 and it's been going strong ever since.
*This area suffered terribly throughout both World Wars, but also hosted a strong partisan element and even a cleverly hidden hospital
This first picture shows the character of Pust, who is the scapegoat for everything (natural or otherwise) that has gone wrong over the past 12 months. Much of what happens in the carnival involves him, particularly his indictment for all the wrong-doing (which comes across as quite humorous) and symbolic execution. After he is put to death there is both a dance of celebration and a mourning. The costume is made from moss. If it rains, it can weigh up to 100kg. Even when dry it weighs as much as 80kg. That's dedication, hey?
Other Laufarji characters represent 'typical' members of society - some are traditional, and others modern. Below you see the old lady who sweeps away winter and Pust's brother, the pine man. There are drunks and a neanderthal character too. Well, you can see for yourself on this video
The costumes creep Ayesha out (rather Doctor Who villain-esque, they are) but I'm rapt in the whole idea - the reminder that in Australia we so lack the vividness of changes in the season. Even more than that, we lack in relevant symbolism. All our inherited 'festivals' are topsy-turvy, out-of-touch with nature and what's really happening. I'd love to go back to Cerkno for this...
We hit the road, and what roads! Masterful driving of the beast by Theaker takes us through great scenery...
.
..and to the UNESCO listed Scocjan Caves. Down we went, but couldn't take photos in the depths of it. Such depths! Such ancient, ancient evidence of time before us. So much more than us! We tried to calculate the age of the 'Giant' stalagmite... about 15 metres tall, growing at 1 to 1.5cm per hundred years. Go on, work it out and be humbled.
More Doctor Who sensations ensued in the vast canyons below ground... check the photo in this link if you care to. Dragons. Gollums. All were surely there, or had been.
delerious explorers |
cool explorers |
And then we crossed the border to Croatia...
Yay! Celebrating border crossing in back of Theaker's bus |
Did you buy the knickers- and if not, why not!?
ReplyDeleteYes, Yes we did...
Delete:) :) :) :) :)
Do I happen to see the Holly bag?
ReplyDelete-Hannah
Now THAT is a unique Slovenian experience!!
ReplyDelete