Saturday, 28 July 2012

Socks, scams, smurfs and not-sexy pasta


Next we went from Rovinj (Croatia) to Venizia (Venice, Italy) by boat, really it's the only way to go.

Until we went, me and dad kind of thought that there would be less walk-ways and more canals. A couple of years ago, I thought that, besides in buildings, no-body could walk in Venice, I thought it was ALL canals!!! So, I was slightly disappointed when we had to walk a while with our heavy packs.

 Well, the canals are beautiful...


 But WOW, Venice is amazing! Even with the masses of TOURISTS! Oh right, I forgot that we are tourists. But anyway, I wouldn't like to live there, still TOO MANY TOURISTS :) Tourists look a bit like this...









 


Another amazing thing in Venice is the door knockers, door handles, and  mailboxes

 



 Some of the food is odd, such as Smurf flavoured gelato and historical pasta.



 Splendid architecture is everywhere.



 We took the traghetto across the Grand Canal.  At only 50 euro cents, it's the cheapest gondala ride in town.
 The markets were full of colour.



When we got lost, we found peaceful places amongst the chaos
 


Time is taking its toll on the old city.


 And there are modern features too, like graffiti, 











a durex machine on our street, 
 
 and a Buddhist monk in sandals and socks in Piazza San Marco.  Of course.


View from the campanile (bell tower)



Although the branding in the lift may have been trying to tell us something...  People selling stuff EVERYWHERE...


 Behave.  OK?

Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Rovinj, how we love thee, let us count the ways...

Things we love about Rovinj, Istria, Croatia, in no particular order:

Our host, Maja, and her overly curious cat, Coco, with the broken leg (as a result of falling from the balcony... The cat, not Maja).

Our apartment... the Blue Door apartment with steep stairs, great views, wooden floors and white walls. We booked this via AirBNB

 









 







Views from the apartment.








Cold beer.  Cheap cold beer!


 Our little 'neighbourhood', where an old lady sat and said "Dober Dan" whenever we passed.



Truffles.

Cats.  Istrian cats hanging around restaurants and fishing boats.


Boats.


 Reflections.

Friendly, funny, flirty waiters.Sorry - no photos!

Truffles.  Cheap truffles!

Medieval, topsy-turvy town.  Buildings all atop one another.

 












Ochre and terracotta roofs and walls.


Steps leading down to rocks and the Adriatic Sea.

Truffles.

The crystalline Adriatic glinting in the sunlight.

The sun setting behind the old town.

Silly, slippery cobblestones.


Truffles.

Satisfaction of climbing 185 steep, sloping stairs to the top of St Euphemia's clock tower.  That's the high thing there.

 












The view from the top of the tower.

 No cars!





Did I mention truffles?


Monday, 23 July 2012

All aboard the magic Theaker bus

How lucky are we?  Here we are on the other side of the world and along comes Theaker, our Amazonianly gorgeous high-flying aerialist friend, complete with her Slovenian magic bus to take us to places we would never have made it to alone.
Who drives the magic bus?  Theaker drives the magic bus
Who flies the magic trapeze?  Theaker flies and turns the world on its head

I lied, that's Livija & Theaker on the left
Theaker took us to Cerkno, an enchanted mountain village which is North-East-ish in Slovenia where she was doing a show for the Festival Ala.  That gave us the gift of meeting the organiser, Livija, who became our personal guide and new friend. Of course, I don't have a picture of her; this seems to be the case with many people we've really had fun with (Gabi, Roger, Peter, Michael, Libby, Gra, Bea, Gina are also on this list...)

What a treat to spend time with someone who could show us around and tell us all about it.  I know more about Cerkno than most other places we've been to.  From the profound - a 55,000 year old bone flute (the oldest instrument in the world) was found here - to the profane - you can buy g-string knickers in a vending machine at the pub... Why?  Excellent question.


Knicker machine

But we weren't only obsessed with one-size-fits-all-knickers-in-a-ball for 2 euros each... masks were also a source of great fascination and the local museum (in tandem with Livija) was great.


The masks and costumes belong to the Laufarji - a company of 'runners' who originate from way back when (Pagan times) to mark the end of winter.  The carnival was sadly lost around the time of World War I* but some clever folk revived it in 1956 and it's been going strong ever since. 

*This area suffered terribly throughout both World Wars, but also hosted a strong partisan element and even a cleverly hidden hospital

This first picture shows the character of Pust, who is the scapegoat for everything (natural or otherwise) that has gone wrong over the past 12 months.  Much of what happens in the carnival involves him, particularly his indictment for all the wrong-doing (which comes across as quite humorous) and symbolic execution.  After he is put to death there is both a dance of celebration and a mourning.  The costume is made from moss.  If it rains, it can weigh up to 100kg. Even when dry it weighs as much as 80kg.  That's dedication, hey?
 
Other Laufarji characters represent 'typical' members of society - some are traditional, and others modern.  Below you see the old lady who sweeps away winter and Pust's brother, the pine man.  There are drunks and a neanderthal character too. Well, you can see for yourself on this video
 
The costumes creep Ayesha out (rather Doctor Who villain-esque, they are) but I'm rapt in the whole idea - the reminder that in Australia we so lack the vividness of changes in the season.  Even more than that, we lack in relevant symbolism.  All our inherited 'festivals' are topsy-turvy, out-of-touch with nature and what's really happening.  I'd love to go back to Cerkno for this...

We hit the road, and what roads!  Masterful driving of the beast by Theaker takes us through great scenery...

.
..and to the UNESCO listed Scocjan Caves. Down we went, but couldn't take photos in the depths of it.  Such depths!  Such ancient, ancient evidence of time before us.  So much more than us!  We tried to calculate the age of the 'Giant' stalagmite... about 15 metres tall, growing at 1 to 1.5cm per hundred years.  Go on, work it out and be humbled.  

More Doctor Who sensations ensued in the vast canyons below ground... check the photo in this link if you care to.  Dragons.  Gollums.  All were surely there, or had been.
 
delerious explorers

cool explorers
And then we crossed the border to Croatia...

Yay! Celebrating border crossing in back of Theaker's bus